Donna’s Diner in Spokane Valley…

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Donna’s Diner is ho-hum on the outside but inside it’s “the real deal.”

AUGUST 11, 2014.

IT WOULDN’T BE RIGHT not to mention this little place. I’ve avoided making this blog more about breakfast, lunch and dinner than anything else. Too many people, when writing about their travels, make that mistake…”Today we made tuna sandwiches for lunch. We used dill rye toast and Best Foods mayonnaise with shredded iceberg lettuce. Bob had a slice of beefsteak tomato on his. I didn’t.  Here’s a photo…look at the yellow paper napkins we’re using this week.” Gimme a break! This is a travel blog. This is about our Adventure. I’ve not subjected you week after week to pictures of every sandwich and strip of bacon that comes my way. But as I say, it wouldn’t be right not to tell you about the little diner we found this morning in Spokane Valley. Nothing fancy, but noteworthy. The kind of place you want to know about when you’re in town. The kind of place that you can “trust.” The real deal.

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Spokane, Washington…

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Manito Park in Spokane. I really miss our summer flower gardens back home in Deerhorn Valley!

AUGUST 9, 2014. We said goodbye to our buddy Therese yesterday and she made the long drive home to Portland. We had a great time while she visited us in Coeur d’Alene. We cooked some good food, had lots of interesting conversations, did lots of “catching up,” dined at a few good restaurants and enjoyed a day on the lake. We’re going to keep our eyes peeled for one of those Southwest Airlines sales where you can fly almost anywhere round trip for about $39.00. When we spot one, we’ll see if we can arrange for her to fly to wherever we are at that point, so we can see each other again.

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The Old European Restaurant, Post Falls, Idaho…

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Our server liked us…she brought us a plate of aebleskivers “on the house.”

AUGUST 5, 2014.

A VERY SPECIAL PLACE. Post Falls is a town just a few miles from Coeur d’Alene. We happened on a restaurant there today that is very special. Without a doubt, this is the most noteworthy eatery we’ve found so far on our Adventure. Second place isn’t even close! All the soups and batters and fruit juices and jams are made from scratch right on the premises. The coffee they serve is shade grown, and served in individual French Press carafes right on the table. This restaurant is so good that it literally would be a mistake to visit this area without having breakfast or lunch there. Honest!

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Coeur d’Alene, Idaho…

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Fly fishing on Lake Coeur d’Alene, Idaho. I’m determined to learn how to do this…I just need to find the right outfitter to teach me.

AUGUST 4, 2014: Coeur d’Alene is 30 miles east of Spokane, and is the largest city in the northern Idaho panhandle. It’s located on the shore of Lake Coeur d’Alene  and is often referred to as the “Lake City” or simply by its initials: “CDL” Barbara Walters called the city “a little slice of Heaven” and included it in her list of most fascinating places to visit. The area is surrounded by forest and dozens of lakes left behind by the glaciers of the ice age. Fishing, boating, hiking and snow skiing are popular in the area. Tourism is an important industry…we had a difficult time finding a place to stay with our motorhome during the peak summer season.

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We had a real scare last night…

AUGUST 3, 2014.

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This is what our campsite looked like this morning, after the storm passed. If we’d not evacuated last night, I doubt that I’d be writing this post! We’re lucky to be alive! The wind blew down dozens of these trees in the campground.

WE’RE LUCKY TO BE ALIVE! We’re lucky to be alive with our motorhome intact. No kidding! I’ve written about some tight spots and stressful situations we’ve encountered earlier on this Journey, but nothing like this! Right now, we’re safely parked in the lot at Northern Quest Casino, about 20 miles from our campsite at the KOA park near Diamond Lake. We evacuated our campground this morning after having a very close call last night. Here’s what happened:

A FIERCE STORM: There was a powerful lightning and thunderstorm early yesterday morning. By mid-day it seemed to have passed. We met some folks from Alberta, Canada and spent the afternoon with them, sharing our stories and listening to theirs. After our little get-together ended and we were starting to think about dinner, the storm resurrected itself with much more intensity than earlier in the day. As darkness began to fall, the wind whipped through the pine trees surrounding our campsite. Big dollops of rain pounded our rig. Soon, pine branches were flying through the air and slapping the vehicles. Our mood began to change from one of interest to one of apprehension.  The trunks of the tall pine trees were now swaying in the wind like stalks of grain on the prairie. Next were crackling noises…the sound of wood cracking! In an instant we realized that these trees were in all likelihood coming down! Soon!

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Palouse Scenic Byway and Top Notch Cafe…

JULY 29, 2014.

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We drove through this beautiful country for about 100 miles today.

A PATCHWORK OF ROLLING FARMLAND. The drive from Lewiston, Idaho to Newport, Washington via Spokane turned out to be a memorable one. State Route 195. True rural America. It took us almost 100 miles along the Palouse Scenic Byway, which is a spectacular drive through a patchwork quilt of rolling hills, celebrated for its hundreds of miles of undulating fields, rich farmlands and rural communities. Speckled among the hills are majestic buttes with spectacular panoramic vistas and wildlife viewing. We were told the sculptured landscape changes with the seasons from vivid greens, vibrant yellows and amber harvest hues to silvery snow-dusted hills. On the hot summer day when we made the drive, the green hues were turning into the warm golds and browns of ripening crops and grasses. The farmers have begun to cut their hay fields, leaving rows of swathed grasses to dry in the sun. Some of the fields were fallow, so we also saw some darker, exposed soil areas which provided a handsome contrast to the “amber waves of grain.” This is truly a photographer’s paradise, and I suppose it would be at each of the seasons throughout the year.

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Lewiston, Idaho…

JULY 24, 2014. 

hellsgateHELLS GATE STATE PARK: About 125 miles north of Riggins we arrive at Hells Gate State Park, in Lewiston, Idaho. The Park is a gateway to both Idaho’s Lewis and Clark country and to another section of Hells Canyon, the deepest river gorge in North America. We have a shady campsite along the Snake River which will make a comfortable base-camp for exploration of the surrounding area. Here is where we will take the Jet boat excursion we’ve been planning. The boats’t excursions into Hells Canyon leave on a regular basis right from docks located in the park near our campsite. The Nez Perce National Historic Park is only 30 minutes away. A wide choice of restaurants and shopping are just minutes away, in nearby Lewiston Idaho. This spot is gonna be just fine. We’ll be here for a week and our friend Therese may even drive from Oregon to visit us. If she’s actually up to the drive, it will be fun to see her and talk about all the fun times when last we saw her at the Colorado River in Nevada.

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Rapid River Fish Hatchery in Riggins, Idaho…

JULY 23, 2014.

chinookOUR VISIT TO THE HATCHERY: Several times in the last few days we’ve driven past a road sign for the Rapid River Fish Hatchery and today we decided to take the short drive there and learn a bit about breeding Chinook Salmon. It’s a very interesting operation. Here’s how the process works. The Rapid River flows through an undeveloped canyon before reaching the hatchery. The river is protected as part of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, and no perturbations such as logging or road building are allowed. At the hatchery, the fish rearing facilities consist of 52 egg incubators, 12 outdoor concrete raceways and six earthen rearing ponds with concrete side walls. Holding facilities for adult salmon broodstock consist of one concrete holding pond and one earthen holding pond. They provide space for as many as 3,000 adult salmon prior to spawning.

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Kate’s Cattleman’s Family Diner…

JULY 20, 2014. RIGGINS, IDAHO.

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Kate posing with Florence. There’s some of that “Grandma Art” on the wall.

MEET KATE, OWNER OF KATE’S CATTLEMAN’S FAMILY DINER: This gal is charming and one of the most interesting people I’ve met so far on our Journey. Here’s how we met. We decided to take a drive this morning and stop for breakfast in Riggins, population 410. Not a Walmart in sight!  We saw a little place called Kate’s on the side of the road…it looked homey and as if the food might be home cooked so we stopped. We were greeted by Kate, the owner and cook. Her little cafe is tiny…probably seats about 25 diners and it’s decorated in “early Grandma” and local memorabilia. We felt at home immediately…as if we’d been invited to her home for a meal made from scratch. We had a traditional breakfast of bacon and eggs, but it was special because the toast was homemade sourdough right from the oven and the jam was also made on site from locally grown raspberries. The coffee was fresh and our cups never got less than half-empty before they were re-filled without even a request. The meal was good…just as if we’d eaten at home. Before we got our check, we were offered fresh homemade berry cobbler…a choice of raspberry, huckleberry or blueberry. A la mode, of course. Who ever heard of having dessert after breakfast? Who cares, we did. It was wonderful. As we were getting ready to depart, I asked Kate if she’d owned the place forever. “Not really,” she said. “Until a few years ago, I was a professional fly fishing guide here in town.” What? As you can see from her picture, Kate doesn’t look like what you’d expect a professional fishing guide to look like!

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Riggins, Idaho…

JULY 18, 2014

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Our campsite near Riggins, Idaho. July 2014. The river wasn’t more than about 25 feet from our door!

RIGGINS, IDAHO. We’ve just arrived and we’ll be here for about a week. The town is nestled deep in a canyon at the confluence of the Salmon and Little Salmon Rivers in west central Idaho. The population is a tad over 400. This is truly small town Americana. I love it. I can’t wait to meet some of the locals and find out “what’s goin’ on” with them. I’m getting pretty bold…I just walk up to folks and start chatting. I find that most love talking about themselves, what they do and where they live. I’m learning a lot.

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Hell’s Canyon National Recreation Area…

JULY 15, 2014

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The Snake River in northern Idaho. In some places it’s calm…in others it’s a frenzy of whitewater rapids.

WE’RE HEADED TO SOME REMOTE AREAS. Our Great American Adventure is about to get kicked up a notch! Some pretty exciting country lies just ahead. We’re going to stay here in Boise until Friday and then head to Hell’s Canyon National Recreation Area in northern Idaho. We’ve talked to some locals and also some fellow-travelers..I think we’re about to experience the most exciting part of our Journey to date. We’ve found two rustic campsites where we’ll stay…maybe a week at each. This is some wild, unspoiled and pristine area. I’m excited. I’m going to brush up this week on using our camcorder so I’ll be ready to take some good video. I’ll post it to YouTube and insert it here in my blog. Stay tuned.

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Boise, Idaho…

JULY 11, 2014.

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Boise, Idaho at dusk. July 2014.

HI VALLEY RV PARK on Horseshoe Bend Road is home to us for at least another week. We “rode into town” a few days ago to have some work done on our diesel engine at the Rocky Mountain Cummins facility located here. Our engine was running a little sluggish and it turns out that we needed to replace our turbocharger. With less than 20,000 miles, it doesn’t seem as if we’d have needed this much attention, but at least the work was covered by our warranty. Also, we were able to replace our unit with one of the new improved titanium ones and our coach is now running perkier than ever! It just “leaps” off the line and even the performance of the exhaust brakes is much improved. We’re learning that lots more maintenance and repair than we ever expected seems to be the norm. As a fellow-traveler a few days back said to us: “We’ve seen all of America in our motor-home…one repair facility at a time!”  I hope that doesn’t really turn out to be the case for us.

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We’ve made a big decision…

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Enjoy the moments in your life. These moments ARE your life!

JULY 8, 2014.

WE’RE GOING TO SLOW DOWN. Over our morning coffee during the last few days, we’ve been discussing the pace of our Journey. We’ve been talking about places we’d planned to visit that we’d need to skip, in order to get to the East Coast by Autumn. It’s dawned on us…gradually, over the course of several weeks, that we’ve been trying to do too much, too quickly. It’s time to slow down and re-group. Our Adventure will suffer if we’re constantly “in a hurry” to get to the next spot. We’d miss the forest for the trees. We’d not have time to smell the roses…we’d be in such a rush that we’d probably not even see ’em in the first place! That certainly wasn’t our intent when we began this Adventure. So, we will still get to the East Coast, for sure. I’d not miss the opportunity to meander down the coastline and visit the little fishing villages, to stop and talk to the Vermonter who’s drawing sap from his maple trees to make syrup… and to walk around Harvard Yard where Dad went to school. We’ll just not do these things as soon as we’d initially planned.

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Vale, Oregon…

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The little western town of Vale, Oregon is as close to Idaho as you can get without crossing the border.

JULY 5, 2014.

VALE IS A TINY WESTERN TOWN on the extreme eastern side of Oregon, only about 15 miles from the border with Idaho. The population is less than 2,000. Rodeo is “where it’s at” in Vale and we stumbled upon this town on the final night of the annual Vale Rodeo. What luck! After having a pulled pork sandwich at the local BBQ joint, and meeting “Hoppy” out front, we drove to the Fairgrounds and joined the entire population of Vale to watch some rodeo. I doubt that a man, woman or child residing here was not in attendance. The wholesome excitement of a small town cheering for its local heroes on a Saturday night was a sight to behold. Heartwarming. Americana. Seems as if it’s what the country was all about a long time ago. We saw barrel races, calf roping and a shooting event, where the cowboy (or cowgirl) rides at break-neck speed around the arena shooting at balloon targets. Impressive.

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4th of July 2014: Redmond, Oregon…

JULY 4, 2014. We’re been in Redmond, Oregon for a few days, after driving east from Eugene, across the Cascades and through the Willamette4 Forest.  Redmond is in the high desert, just 15 miles north of Bend. The drive was breathtaking: we traveled alongside bright blue streams rippling across the rocks and meandering through the trees. Our route was lined with tall trees on either side for almost the entire trip. We saw a half dozen tempting National Forest campsites and enough goats and cows grazing in fields to fill a 4H Club barn!  This is our last stop before starting our long trek to the East Coast.  We’re staying in the RV park at the County Fair and Expo Center, because there is a huge fireworks display tonight…right here at the fairgrounds. All we’ve got to do is have a seat on our camp chairs and we’ll have the best seats in the house! Whoo whoo! I love fireworks. We’ve even got some of our own to display…there were fireworks stands all around Washington State when we were there and I couldn’t resist the temptation to buy some. It brought back memories. I remember growing up in San Marino when fireworks-at-home were still legal there…that’s one heck of a long time ago. On the weekend before the 4th, I’d go with my Dad to all the stands in nearby San Gabriel, picking out the fountains, spinners and rockets I wanted. I even remember the best brands: Black Panther and Red Devil. On the day of the holiday, we’d barbecue with neighbors, churn homemade fresh peach ice cream and then when darkness fell the show would begin, right in our own back yard. Memories…

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Bub Warren…Western saddle maker.

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Bub Warren. A respected craftsman in the Old World tradition. Creator of exquisite handmade western saddles and accoutrements.

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With a price tag of $28,000.00 whoever ends up with this saddle probably won’t be using it much riding the range! 

JULY 2, 2014.

REDMOND, OREGON. This was a really special day! As most of you know, I’m taking this Journey as much to meet folks as I am to see places. Today I got to meet a really special man. Here’s how it happened: We had taken our RV to a detail shop to have it washed, polished and waxed. We were told it would take about six hours for the job to be completed, so we had lots of time on our hands. We drove around Redmond a bit, saw Smith Rock State Park and had some coffee. I mentioned to Florence that yesterday I’d seen a shop that sells western saddles and tack…”Maybe it’d be fun to go in there and poke around,” I said. She agreed and a few minutes later we were parking in front of this old building with little idea, really, of what we’d find inside. What a “find.” The place is more museum than retail store. I met the owner and talked to him a very long time. We hit it off and I’m sure if I lived around here his shop is a place I’d frequent just to hang out and swap stories. This guy is truly an interesting American!

MEET BUB WARREN: Born in the Osage Indian lands of Oklahoma, Glen “Bub” Warren was raised on the farms and ranches of the great American West. In his younger days, Bub earned his keep as a carpenter, lawman and as a working cowboy. He later learned the craft of saddle-making from Jerry Franklin of the legendary Franklin Saddle Company. Franklin rigs were prized by generations of genuine buckaroos for their fit, craftsmanship and rugged durability. Before Jerry Franklin died in 1976, he passed the company to Bub Warren, and Bub has preserved the great Franklin tradition in the trappings and art of the Franklin Saddle Company.

FROM COWBOYS TO COLLECTORS: Today, riders and collectors the world over recognize the museum quality of original Bub Warren leatherwork. Every piece he produces reflects the hand of a craftsman, the eye of an artist and the heritage of a true son of the American West. A respected craftsman in the Old World tradition, Bub has made about 1,300 saddles for riders in America, Europe, Japan, Australia and elsewhere. His work has been honored by the Oklahoma diamond Jubilee, the Pendleton Round-Up and the Smithsonian Museum folk life festival. To ensure the authenticity and lasting value of his work, all Bub Warren originals carry his distinctive Buffalo,s skull trademark medallion.

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It takes Bub about 300 hours to make one of these saddles. I learned that lots of serious collectors prefer this type of saddle to those heavily adorned with silver. They say the others are “hiding behind the silver.”

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Eugene, Oregon…

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College football at the University of Oregon in Eugene is a really big deal. The whole city turns out to watch the “Ducks” play ball.

JUNE 28, 2014. We just arrived in Eugene, having left Washington mid-day and driving all afternoon in the rain.  We’ll be here only a day or two. We’ve specifically come to have our windshield re-set at a specialty RV Glass facility. We’re getting an extremely noisy whistling sound around the windshield.  It’s upsetting when these “out-of-the-blue” maintenance and repair stops are necessary, but we’re talking to other full-timers and beginning to realize that they’re just necessary from time to time…can’t be avoided…part of the journey.  And, as I always remind myself, in retirement: “What’s the rush?” Although we’ve had to backtrack and change our route to the East Coast a bit, we really need to have this work done and this is only one of a couple places in the entire US that specializes in this. Turns out that RV windshields…especially the huge one-piece Greyhound-bus types like we have are notorious for getting out of alignment and causing the whistling noise we’re experiencing. It’s not something we’re willing to ignore or “live with” as we drive all the way across the country.

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