Newport, Rhode Island…

AUGUST 3, 2015

yachting_retouchedABOUT NEWPORT. Newport is a beautiful seaside city that’s famous for its mansions, shopping and scenery. It’s also known for hosting the Newport Folk Festival and the Newport Jazz Festival. And for many years it was home to the America’s Cup Sailing Yacht Races. Cobblestone streets and brick sidewalks accent an upscale touristy downtown area with shops, galleries and restaurants…and it’s all located on the water. Newport sits on the southern end of Aquidneck Island and features fine beaches, rocky cliffs and lots of American history.

MORE DARN BRIDGES! You guys know I hate driving across high bridges. Especially when they span water. Incredibly, Florence has been able to plan our route and navigate all the way across the country so that we’ve been able to avoid any “big-deal bridges.” We’ve detoured as much as a hundred miles out of our way to accomplish this, but that’s OK. Remember our mantra: “Whats the rush?”

BUT A LITTLE EASIER THIS TIME. But this morning a detour wasn’t possible. And there are two bridges leading to Newport. That’s it. No other way to get there. I’d either drive across the bridges or not see Newport. I’d used Google Maps to get a bird’s eye view. They didn’t look good. But I was determined to go. “We’ve come all the way across the country and I’m within a stone’s throw…Screw it! I’m going to drive across those damn bridges and see Newport.” I said. So off we went this morning. And I drove right across both of them like I’d been doing it every day of my life! They weren’t as bad as I’d feared and maybe, just maybe…I’m getting a little better about driving across the darn things. Time will tell.

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This is the second of two bridges leading to Newport, Rhode Island. I hate driving across high bridges. And I hate it even more when someone else is driving. What a dilemma!


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Mystic Seaport, Connecticut…

JULY 24,   2015

ABOUT MYSTIC.  We prepared to swab the decks, batten down the hatches and set sail. It was a beautiful sunny day when we headed to Mystic, Connecticut’s  seaside village devoted to all things maritime. The Museum of America and the Sea is the largest maritime museum in the world. This 20 acre replica of a 19th-century seaport is a complex of buildings located on the Mystic River, which flows into Long Island Sound and provides access to the sea. The main attraction is its preservation shipyard and its fleet of antique sailing ships, including the Charles W. Morgan. It’s the only remaining vessel in the nation’s fleet of 19th-century whalers.

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Mystic Seaport in Connecticut is a 20 acre replica of a New England whaling seaport.

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We’re in Rhode Island…

JULY 17, 2015

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Westerly is in the Southwest corner of Rhode Island. The state is so small that everything’s close enough to be explored by taking day trips from our site.

ARRIVING IN RHODE ISLAND. Located half-way between Boston and New York, our latest destination is in Westerly, Rhode Island.  The 100 mile drive from Cape Cod took us just a little more than two hours. It was an easy drive except for about a ten mile stretch through Providence, where the traffic was heavy and the road left lots to be desired. We’re staying in a large new RV park, conveniently located to many of the places we want to visit not only in Rhode Island but also in nearby Connecticut. As in all of New England, there is a lot to see. We’ve already been here four days and we’re “just getting started.” But remember our mantra?  “There’s no rush.” We’ll stay as long as we wish. Because we can.

A LITTLE ABOUT THE STATE. Rhode Island is the smallest of the 50 states. Its historic towns and pristine shoreline dotted with inlets and tranquil harbors make the place a gold mine for explorers like we’ve become. Rhode Island has earned its nickname of the “Ocean State.” The coastline, all told, is about 400 miles long.

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Our Whale Watching Trip…

JULY 11, 2015

WHALES NEAR CAPE COD. About a 40 mile boat ride from Bardstown Harbor on Cape Cod, Stellwagen Bank is the seasonal home to Humpback, Finback and Menke Whales. These animals are baleen whales…they have no teeth! Instead, they have baleen plates made up of keratin, the same material that makes up our hair and fingernails. The plates hang from the whales’ upper jaws and allow the animals to filter or strain their prey …usually plankton and small fish, from the seawater. You learned something just now, didn’t you?

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Whale Tail off the coast of Cape Cod.

ABOUT HUMPBACKS. In the Cape area, Humpback whales are the most frequently encountered. They “winter” in the Caribbean, an area that serves as their breeding and calving ground. The calves weigh a ton at birth and measure about 15 feet in length!  Just by nursing on their mothers’ milk, they gain as much as 100 pounds a day!

AND A BIT MORE INFO. Humpbacks are known for a variety of behaviors, some of which appear to be playful. Rolling, flipper-slapping and breaching are some of these behaviors. Watching these magnificent animals frolic in their natural state at sea, rather than wallowing in captivity, made me happy. NOTE: See my rant about Orcas in captivity at Sea World. It’s at the top of the “Reflections” page, accessible from the sidebar to this post. Please read it. No, I’m not a member of PETA. But I am very opposed to keeping whales in captivity for no reason other than to entertain humans!

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Chatham, Massachusetts…

JULY 7, 2015

OUR FAVORITE TOWN. Of all the towns and villages we’ve visited on Cape Cod, our favorite and perhaps the most picturesque and charming is Chatham. If the Cape is viewed as a bent arm, Chatham is the elbow. The geographic features of the town are hilly, wooded uplands, extensive barrier beaches, spits, harbors, numerous small estuaries and both salt and freshwater ponds. Main Street is a shopper’s paradise, lined with tempting stores and restaurants. Historic churches, museums and antiques, beautiful homes, fishing boats in a harbor, and a lighthouse make this a must-visit spot on the Cape.

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Provincetown, Massachusetts…

JULY 2, 2015

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Provincetown, colored red on the map, is at the very tip of Cape Cod. We’re staying in Falmouth, at the lower left on the map. The drive took about an hour and a half.

OUR TRIP TO P-TOWN. We took a day trip to see the quaint colonial town of Provincetown, called “P-Town by the locals. It’s about an hour’s drive “up” the Cape from where we’re staying “down” the Cape in Falmouth.  As you can see from the map I’ve inserted, Cape Cod is shaped like an upraised arm, bent at the elbow, with Cape Cod National Seashore extending as a forearm. At the end of the forearm, the red-colored “fist” is P-Town.

IT’S CONFUSING. Although we often rely on local folks to give us suggestions and directions, for our trip today we relied on our Jeep’s navigation system. Here’s why: The residents here have divided the Cape into three districts, with names that don’t make any sense. The “Mid” and “Upper” Cape is actually the southernmost portion, closest to the mainland. And the “Lower” Cape is the northernmost section. So getting sensible directions from the locals is next to impossible. You see, we’re staying in the lower part of the Cape, called the “Upper Cape.” Anyway, enough of this!

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Arriving on Cape Cod…

JULY 1, 2015

CAPE COD CAMPRESORT. Our home right now is Cape Cod Campresort, in the town of Falmouth, Massachusetts. We’ve been here capeabout five days. The resort’s motto is: There is no place like this place near this place, so this must be “the place.” I hope so, because it’s costing us $100 a night…more than we like to spend. It’s as close to upscale Buckhorn Lake Resort in the Texas Hill Country as we’ve found, so we decided to stay a full two weeks. The resort is truly big-rig friendly and offers large 2,500 square foot sites, three swimming pools with jacuzzis, fishing and boating on a private access lake with a sandy beach, a large recreation room, internet cafe and proximity to everything Cape Cod has to offer.

tornado2TORNADO WARNING! The weather since we arrived has been fabulous: lots of sunshine and warm temperatures. But New England weather can change in a flash, and today it did. When we awoke, a light rain was falling. But within the hour, the rain was driving…beating so hard on our roof it sounded like we could be inside a snare drum. All of a sudden, both our cell phones simultaneously emitted an loud, air-raid sounding alarm: Tornado Warning! Take shelter immediately!  This wasn’t an “advisory,” but a “warning.” There’s a big difference. We grabbed our camera bags and laptops, jumped in the Jeep and drove to the resort office, where there is a secure area. The TV was tuned to the weather station and everyone watched intently as the meteorologist kept emphasizing how imperative it was for everyone in town to take shelter. Fortunately, the storm passed to the west within about 20 minutes and the rain subsided. Back to normal, but quite an experience for a couple of folks from Southern California.

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We’re making a U-Turn…

JUNE 25, 2015.

WE’RE MAKING A U-TURN. Having the freedom  to change travel plans at will is one of the major benefits of motorhome travel. Our udirection of travel is never mandated or locked-in by airline or hotel reservations. And this morning we made a spontaneous decision to change our short-term travel plans. We were about to begin visiting some major cities and population centers: Boston, New York and Washington, D.C.. As much as we still want to experience these places, right now is just not the time. No, we decided this morning, now is just not the time for crowds, train schedules and subways. It’s not the time to see the Statue of Liberty, take in a Broadway play or visit Radio City Music Hall. We’ll get to all that. But not right now.

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Historic Salem, Massachusetts..

JUNE 23, 2015

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The weather set the perfect mood for our visit to Salem. 

SETTING THE STAGE. It began a little after midnight…at first an almost imperceptible tapping on the roof that seemed to start and stop in the darkness.  Later, as dawn crept into the campground, it became steadier, though still very light. Rain. By morning, it was still faint…but now persistent…nearly hidden by a hovering whisper of fog. The treetops emerged from it as if searching for breath. It was quiet. Birds and squirrels were about, but none of their early morning chatter that usually announces the coming of day. No, it was quiet…almost eerily quiet. And still quite dark, considering the hour. The mood was somber, melancholic. A perfect day to visit Salem, to learn about witchcraft and witch trials, we decided. Salem, Massachusetts, probably the best place in the country to be on Halloween. Or on a Halloween-like day like today. Let’s go.

gables3ABOUT SALEM. The city of Salem is located 17 miles north of Boston on the Atlantic Ocean. Although it is best known for the infamous witch trials of 1692, which resulted in the execution of 20 innocent people, this coastal town has other, less sensational claims to fame. Founded in 1626, Salem grew to become one of New England’s busiest 18th and 19th century seaports, its harbor filled with clipper ships carrying treasures from around the globe. Present-day Salem is a bustling, good-natured town that has the ability to celebrate its rich artistic and architectural heritage, all the while playing up its popular image as the witchcraft capital of America.

WITCH TRIALS. In 1692, Salem was swept by a wave of hysteria during which 200 citizens were accused of practicing witchcraft. In all, 150 people were jailed and 19 were hung as witches, while another man was crushed to death with stones. No one was safe. Two dogs were executed on the gallows for being witches. Not surprisingly, when the Governor’s wife became a suspect, the witch trials came to an abrupt and officially sanctioned end.

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The Kennebunks, Maine…

 

JUNE 20, 2015

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Signpost in Kennebunkport, Maine.

ABOUT THE KENNEBUNKS. We’ve all heard about President Bush 41’s summer home at Kennebunkport in Maine. So what’s with the title to this post, “The Kennebunks?” Here’s the deal. First a thriving port and busy shipbuilding center, and then a summer retreat for the wealthy, the Kennybunks are made up of two villages, Kennebunkport and Kennebunk. Are you tongue-tied, yet? I thought so.

GETTING THERE. We took a day trip from the RV park where we stayed in New Hampshire. The park is located at a geographic apex which puts New Hampshire, Maine and Massachusetts all within a stone’s throw of one another. So while camping at one place, we were able to see the sights in three separate states. And without much driving, either.

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Celebrating two years on the road…

JUNE 17, 2015

time flies_retouchedIS IT POSSIBLE? It hardly seems possible, but this week we’re celebrating two years of full-time travel on our Great American Adventure. Can you even believe it? When we decided to take an extensive trip in our motorhome to see the country, we didn’t really contemplate being gone more than about a year. That’s a long time, right? Well, even though it most certainly is a long time, two years have come and gone and we’ve not even come close to seeing all we want to see, or meeting all the folks we want to meet. When people ask, “How long will your Adventure last?” I always respond, “When we get up one morning and we’re no longer having fun, our Great American Adventure will be finished.” And that’s how I feel today, writing this post. We’re still having fun. We’re not even close to being bored. Almost every day is exciting. And we’re already starting to plan next year’s travel. So if you’ve enjoyed tagging along with us by reading our blog, stick around. We’re not going away any time soon!  

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In our first two years on the road, we’ve visited all these states and enjoyed every mile of our Journey. If you’ve ever thought about exploring America in a motorhome, our advice to you is, “Just do it!”

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Portland, Maine…

JUNE 15, 2015

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Portland Head Lighthouse.

ABOUT PORTLAND. Portland is located on a peninsula in Casco Bay on the Southern Maine coast, approximately 100 miles north of Boston, Massachusetts. It’s a small seaside city with a high concentration of shops, restaurants, museums and galleries. Portland Head Light and Museum, located adjacent to a World War II artillery emplacement, is one of the most scenic lighthouses in the entire country. And other lighthouses in Portland also help guard the often foggy, stormy coastline. Historical buildings abound on the cobblestone streets, and walking along the breathtaking Eastern Promenade offers views straight out of a Seurat painting. A visit to the authentic working waterfront offers restaurants with al fresco dining and good views of the boats arriving at the docks, and local fishermen unloading their catch. Shops and galleries occupy revitalized warehouses with exposed brick and beams, making some as unique as the wares they display.

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Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster Company…

SOUTH FREEPORT, MAINE.

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Lobster for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the waterfront. A classic New England experience. 

JUNE 14, 2015. LUNCHTIME. Here’s an eatery that deserves its very own post in my blog: Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster Company. The name’s quite a mouthful, but you get quite a mouthful of fresh lobster when you come for lunch and have one of their absolutely delicious lobster rolls. We dined here on a warm sunny day, overlooking the waterfront and watching the seagulls accompany the fishing boats as they returned to the dock with lobsters in their tanks. Our lunch was one of the best meals we’ve had since we left home a little more than two years ago!

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Freeport, Maine…

JUNE 13, 2015

ABOUT FREEPORT. Our next stop in Maine was the quaint little town of Freeport. Local legend is that the town is the birthplace of Maine, the decision to separate from Massachusetts having been made in a local tavern way back in 1789. Whether this is truth or folklore, Freeport has much to offer, including beautiful Casco Bay and lots of other spots for spectacular scenic views where the sea meets a rocky coastline. Beyond that, the town also boasts world class outlet and boutique shopping. But wait…there’s more. Freeport is also home to L.L. Bean, a premier supplier of outdoor recreation equipment.

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Acadia National Park…

JUNE 11, 2015

A SPECTACULAR DESTINATION. Located on the rock-bound Maine island of Mount Desert lies Acadia National Park, one of the most spectacular destinations in the State of Maine. Visiting it was one of the primary reasons for our visit to Bar Harbor. Soaring granite cliffs butt up against sand and cobblestone beaches. Glacier-carved mountains rear up from the sea, cupping deep lakes, while meadow-lands, marshes and dense forests permeate the landscape. Everywhere, the ocean makes its presence felt, whether by sight, sound  or smell.Acadia is located two-thirds of the way up the Maine coast, about 300 miles from Boston and 500 miles from New York City.

SCENIC COASTLINE. From Route 1, the road I’ve described in previous posts, we took the turnoff to Route 3 at the little town of Ellsworth, near where we’re staying on Mount Desert Island near Bar Harbor.  The Park consumes about seventy five percent of the land area on the island. It’s an unspoiled natural area surrounded by quaint little coastal villages…it really couldn’t be much nicer. We spent the better part of two days exploring the park and consuming the sights, sounds and smells. Day One was by Jeep. Day Two was by horse-drawn cart.

PARK LOOP ROAD. The primary auto road in the park is aptly called Park Loop Road. It’s a 20-mile, two lane road that winds through the eastern half of Acadia. We drove slowly and took lots of opportunities to pull off the road and photograph some of the most well-known areas and landmarks. Dramatic scenery includes a coastline of chiseled granite, the ocean dotted with islands, mountain peaks and glacial lakes and ponds.

BASS HARBOR LIGHTHOUSE. This light, which rises from the rocky, southernmost tip of Mount Desert island, is one of the most photographed lighthouses on the East Coast. The light, constructed in 1858, marks the entrance to Bass Harbor. It is now fully automated and managed by the U. S. Coastguard. When originally put into service, oil lamps and clockwork mechanisms were used. The house was manned by a lighthouse keeper, who was responsible for tending and caring for the house, light and lens.

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Bar Harbor, Maine…

JUNE 8, 2015

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The town of Bar Harbor is irresistible! Shops, galleries, eateries and lots of activity on the piers…it’s easy to spend an afternoon just walking around town. We did…more than once.

WE MADE IT! We’ve finally arrived on Maine’s rugged, craggy coastline, to begin our much anticipated summer-long trek down the eastern seaboard. I’m thrilled! The last time I visited this part of the country I was just 15 years old. My parents had taken me on a road trip across the United States. Bless their hearts…they believed it was important for me to have a look at our country at a young age, a geographic and historical “primer,” if you will.

Ever since that first glimpse of New England, I’ve wanted to return. I recall watching lobster boats chugging into little rock-bound harbors at day’s end against the setting sun, seagulls following, gongs on the red navigation buoys announcing the harbor’s presence as they lazily roll in the ocean’s swells…words can’t properly describe it. After all these years, I’ve finally made it. Spending summer and fall driving down this beautiful rockbound coastline while immersing ourselves in early American history marks the high point so far in our Great American Adventure.

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Bar Harbor Inn, an institution in town. It’s a little like the Hotel Del Coronado in the San Diego area.

TOWN OF BAR HARBOR. Located on Mt. Desert Island and surrounded by Acadia National Park and located at the edge of the sea, Bar Harbor is a New England vacation spot beyond compare. With a commanding location on Frenchman Bay, it was a haven for the Astors, Vanderbilts, Rockefellers and other super-affluent elite American families during the 19th century. William Howard Taft enjoyed golfing in the are. More recently, Martha Stewart and John Travolta have become homeowners and are frequently seen around town. I looked for them, but didn’t see either of them. Oh, well. In addition to being an absolutely gorgeous place, Bar Harbor offers boating, fishing, live theater, shopping, museums and historically significant architecture.

A LITTLE HISTORY. In the beginning, it was mostly artists, scholars, scientists, and writers who journeyed to Bar Harbor for inspiration and tranquility. With only a slight interruption by the Civil War, more and more visitors came to the rugged coastal community. Now and then even theater troupes stopped by and concerts became more frequent. Some local citizens ventured into the tourism business and more hotels were built. By 1870 there were sixteen hotels in Bar Harbor. At one point, reservations for rooms had to be made two years in advance! Supply and demand: More and more hotels were built and “the hotel era” dominated the resort for about two decades. Ultimately, the “cottages” built by America’s rich and famous took over the landscape. These “cottages” weren’t what we think of today as cottages. Quite to the contrary, they were waterfront mansions. Some remain. Some have been replaced. Some new ones have been added. One thing’s for sure, if you’re looking for a place to build or buy a home in an unforgettable and stunningly beautiful part of the country, this is it!

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Lake George to Bar Harbor…Part 2.

JUNE 5, 2016

DRIVING THROUGH NEW HAMPSHIRE. On the second day of our drive to Bar Harbor, we traveled for miles through the beautiful state of New Hampshire. “Live free or die” is the state motto. I don’t know about that, but the scenery in New Hampshire is definitely “to die for.” Here are some photos I took from a scenic view point along the road.

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